Wine Review: 2006 · Matanzas Creek Winery · Merlot · Bennett Valley · Sonoma County, CA

I have forced a premature start to the grilling season up here on the mountain. The early days of May in Vermont are more aptly described as chilly; moth season.

A single outdoor light bulb will attract scores. Most crash endlessly against the side of the house, a symphony of hollow-sounding thumps and flappy wings. Some attempt to nest in my hair, and the unlucky few fall victim to the allure of an open propane flame, or Eli’s jaws. He spends hours out on the deck after dark, a priceless opportunity for him to chomp and crush their dusty little bodies under foot.

Lamb lollipops. Not exactly, though—I believe they require a more bulbous trim to be classified as a lollipop, but it just creates such a delicious picture. Meat and candy, without the candy—my favorite protein to slap on the grill. I prepared them with rosemary, olive oil, garlic and sea salt, kept cooking at a borderline acceptable minimum, and commenced another season of the most important of American traditions.

Since we moved to Vermont nearly 4 months ago, I have been eyeballing 2 bottles of prime bottle-aged ’06 Matanzas Creek Merlot at a wine store in Manchester. Not only was it one of the better deals going in the store, at under $25, but it hails from a respected winery with deep, pioneering roots. There it sat, week after week, month after month. Come on, people! I know Merlot isn’t the hipster’s varietal of choice right now, but this I just didn’t understand.

From my tasting notebook:

Elegant, sophisticated, and exceptionally controlled. Not just for Merlot, but for any new world red wine. Medium-bodied and lightly acidic while extending an abundant mineral and herbal statement.

An overtly red fruit Merlot, offering strawberry and cherry notes arranged with light cream, rhubarb and cocoa flavors. No unduly, sweet layers; instead, showing skilled and exacting balance and complexity. A thoughtful and smartly conceived wine. Hints of sweet smelling florals and tobac. Role model Merlot.

Enjoy!

-Rob.

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