Menetou-Salon. A small, overshadowed appellation in the spotty Central Vineyards district of the Loire Valley is new to me for Pinot Noir.
When I consider the Loire Valley, I think Sauvignon Blanc, and the whites of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, Chinon Cabernet Franc, and Melon de Bourgogne, the grape of Muscadet. Predictable and ordered, the Loire Valley is not. The Loire river flows over 600 miles and the grapes that skirt its banks and the styles and quality of wines they produce are as varied as the countryside itself. Pinot Noir, and the influence of Burgundy in the region, scarcely survived the late 19th century phylloxera outbreak and was largely replanted with Sauvignon Blanc, but some remained.
The organic domaine of Henry Pelle consists of 40 hectares covering 2 appellations—Sancerre and Menetou-Salon…The cellars are situated in the beautiful village of Morogues in the eastern region of the Loire Valley and the business is run by Anne Pelle, wife of the late Eric Pelle, assisted by oenologist Julien Zernott. -Joseph Barnes Wines
From my tasting notebook:
A streak of funk jumps early on the nose, cheese rind, or something like it—I’d have been happy if it stayed, but it dims, if not dies completely, in almost no time. Discernibly Pinot Noir, but from where? Had I not known, if I’d been tasting blind, that would have been the question. I would have been stumped, or more likely, confident of the wrong answer. Too spirited and instantly approachable for Burgundy, lacking even the most subtle Gamay ticks, scratch out Beaujolais, too nimble for California. Oregon? Germany? Loire? My familiarity with Pinot Noir from the latter two is just too vague to venture more than a guess.
The fruit is incredibly willful, lucid, and eager to please. Wild red berries, blood orange zest, and soft black tea spices—I know this style, I thrive on it, it strikes my preferential sweet spot. Further reasoning why I couldn’t shake the Pacific Northwest connection. It really is a bridge wine—one who’s sole purpose is shuttling wine drinkers from the new world to the old.
All red fruit, all balance. The fruit bulks with time and air, the tannins float but retain presence and offer ageability. Perfumed and subtle with clove and savvy, briny soy undertones.
The Menetou-Salon Rouge is the most exciting Pinot Noir I’ve had in a long time. The biggest problem will be finding it. The internet isn’t going to be much of a help, but a good wine shop might be. Depending on distribution, a special order is your best shot. Don’t hesitate to ask, if it’s available to the retailer, they should be able to get you some, in whatever quantity you need. There is no added cost to buying wine this way. Or, if you live in Richmond, stop by the Barrel Thief and buy it from me directly!
Enjoy!
-Rob.
